Exclusive Interview: The World’s “Most Feared” Woman Speaks Out + Video

According to Varlakova, the idea that “the whole world was frightened by a sweater” says far more about today’s overheated political climate than about the garment itself. As she puts it, the CCCP lettering is not a threat but part of the history of a great country. The Soviet Union existed—this is a historical fact—and for Russians, she says, that era remains part of their national culture and identity, whether other countries like it or not.

Sergei Lavrov arrived at the Alaska summit wearing a CCCP sweater.

The designer believes that many people in Russian society still look back on that period with nostalgia. She claims that among those who lived through the Soviet years, a majority—by her estimate, as many as 80 percent—remember it with warm feelings. That was the system in which they grew up, the world in which they were socialized.

She adds that even among younger generations, including Gen Z, there is a certain respect for the symbolism of the era—partly because they have only now learned to appreciate what earlier generations once took for granted.

Varlakova stresses that there was no political intent behind the design.

She sees herself first and foremost as a fashion designer who works with visual and historical motifs. The sweater that became a global talking point was, for her, “just” a strong visual symbol—the logical extension of the brand.

From a “Selsoviet” to a Brand

The origin of the brand name itself is telling. Varlakova explains that she comes from a rural background, and one of her childhood memories is the concept of the “selsoviet”—a local council in the Soviet administrative system, a kind of micro-level town hall where people handled everyday affairs. For her, the word has always evoked community, ordinary life, and childhood.

The name “Selsovet” thus refers both to an administrative unit and to the atmosphere of an era. Varlakova was born toward the end of the Soviet Union, grew up on Soviet films and narratives, and as a child felt that “different people lived back then”—in her view, they were more open, more family-oriented, and more cohesive. The CCCP sweater became a natural and logical part of that brand world.

Oppression in Hungary, Nostalgia in Russia

In other parts of Europe, including Hungary, the brand and the sweater evoke very different memories. In countries such as Hungary, the former Czechoslovakia and Yugoslavia, the Soviet Union is often remembered as an oppressive system—marked by occupying troops, mandatory Russian language instruction, and ideological coercion. For many, the letters CCCP still trigger fear and rejection.

Varlakova responds by saying that today propaganda knows no borders, and every state and political actor twists history and symbols to suit its own interests—both in Russia and in the West. She believes much of the fear associated with the Soviet Union today stems less from everyday human experience and more from myths about its sheer size and from political narratives. She acknowledges that there were negatives—shortages, a strict system—but asks: which country’s history is entirely positive?

She insists they do not seek to convey any threat through a sweater or a logo. History cannot be rewound, and the past will not repeat itself—but in her view, that is no reason to deny or be ashamed of one’s own history. On the contrary, respect for culture and history is, she argues, a natural need of any nation.

Lavrov as a “Global Influencer”

Speaking about the foreign minister’s role, Varlakova says she herself did not know in advance that Lavrov would wear her sweater to the summit in Alaska . She knew he owned one, but there was no coordination beforehand. In her view, Lavrov is not the type to plan such gestures in consultation with fashion designers.

Lavrov showed up in Alaska wearing a USSR sweatshirt. Very reassuring to at least 14 of Russia’s neighbors. pic.twitter.com/zwalshPWaC

— Yaroslav Trofimov (@yarotrof) August 15, 2025

In retrospect, however, she sees it as a global communications moment. Lavrov is a controversial figure, but according to Varlakova, he is widely respected as a diplomat. Seen through the lens of influence, she says, he became one of the world’s “best influencers.” The attention surrounding the sweater would be hard to surpass not only politically but also from a marketing standpoint—it was the moment when the wave truly "broke through" for the brand.

A Tsunami of Orders

The story of the CCCP sweater, of course, did not begin in Alaska. Varlakova recalls that three years ago the brand was small and known only in narrow circles, with minimal demand. The first major breakthrough came when their clothing appeared in a Russian feature film. That sparked the first “boom,” and demand has not dropped since.

Lavrov’s appearance took things to an entirely new level.

The designer describes what followed as a “tsunami.” Orders poured in like an avalanche, and wait times stretched to two or three months. She says they are grateful to customers worldwide for being willing to wait so long for a sweater.

According to her, foreign orders multiplied several times over—indeed, by as much as a hundredfold. They ship to Switzerland, Sweden, the United States—and even to Hungary, despite the fact that, in her view, neither the brand nor its underlying concept is particularly popular there. Interestingly, she notes that from the names and addresses, they can tell these are not Russian emigrants, but genuine foreigners with no personal Soviet nostalgia and no Russian roots.

Sanctions: Obstacle or Opportunity?

When it comes to Western sanctions against Russia, Varlakova strikes an unusually optimistic tone. She says they experienced the situation not as an obstacle but as an opportunity. In her view, sanctions forced Russian businesses to work harder, develop their own ideas, and finally stop copying global trends—creating genuinely unique products instead.

She acknowledges that the first weeks and months were marked by uncertainty, with everyone wondering how to live and work under the new conditions. Today, she says, “we no longer pay attention to them.” As a small business owner and an ordinary Russian citizen, she feels the everyday impact of sanctions is far smaller than many outsiders imagine. International shipping is more complicated and logistics more difficult, but she believes they turned this into a competitive advantage: creativity born of necessity.

Competing With Western Designers

Varlakova is known to have previously collaborated with Western fashion houses, giving her insight into what styles, quality, and messaging resonate with foreign customers. Asked provocatively whether Western designers should fear Russian brands entering the European market, she replies that fear is not the right word.

In her view, the Western fashion industry has grown complacent and has not faced a real challenge or strong new visual competitors in a long time. Healthy competition—even from Russian designers, she argues—would benefit the industry. Their goal, she emphasizes, is not to “scare” others, but to create something beautiful and unique.

CCCP Is the New BOSS: Lavrov Lands in Alaska Wearing Soviet Sweater

When Russian Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov arrived in Alaska, people on social media weren’t talking about politics – they were talking about his sweater.

It’s sold on a Russian shopping site called… pic.twitter.com/8e1Mq5LhqO

— Russian Market (@runews) August 15, 2025

A Sweater That Goes Beyond Itself

Ultimately, the controversy surrounding the CCCP sweater goes far beyond the garment itself. In Central and Eastern Europe, including Hungary, the letters may evoke memories of occupation, tanks, compulsory Russian lessons, and enforced loyalty. In Russia, for many, they are associated with childhood, security, and nostalgia.

Ekaterina Varlakova’s sweater has thus become a fashion item, a political flashpoint, and a historical symbol all at once. She insists on continuing to tell this story primarily through the lens of culture, visual identity, and personal memory—not as part of day-to-day political battles.

Cover photo: Ekaterina Varlakova, Russian fashion designer (Source: screenshot)